Eastern Europe

Moldova

A small, little-visited country of vineyards, underground wine cellars and cave monasteries on a bend of the Dniester.

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Before you plan: Check your government's official travel advice before visiting, especially for the Transnistria region.

For storytellers

Why Moldova matters

Moldova is Europe's best-kept secret for people who love wine and quiet roads. Under the hills lie huge limestone cellars, with streets of bottles stretching for kilometres. Above ground you find rolling vineyards, old monasteries carved into cliffs, and villages where hospitality is almost a competitive sport. The capital, Chisinau, is green, Soviet-tinged and friendly, with markets and parks. Prices are low, crowds are non-existent, and a weekend here feels like a discovery. If you want somewhere that feels genuinely different from the usual Europe trail, this is it.

Talking points

Underground wine cellars here are so large they have their own streets and signs.
Orheiul Vechi is a cave monastery set above a bend in the river.
Chisinau is a green capital with parks, cafes and Soviet-era architecture.
Wine culture is central to life, and visits are very affordable.
Few tourists come, so the welcome is warm.

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Capital: Chisinau
Languages: Romanian, Russian
Currency: Moldovan leu (MDL)
Best time to go: May to June and September to October, for pleasant weather and the grape harvest.

Where to base yourself